Methods for Mountaineering

This is going to be one long ugly mess before it gets molded into some come of coherent article or whatever you want to call it.

This is going to be about different ways to go about different objectives in the mountains. Once you know your objective you can move on to determine the strategic plan and what tactics to use. The first big division in a ski objective is in the difference between a ski traverse and going for summits with skis.

On a traverse there is never a time when you are not carrying all your gear, whereas in going for a summit One can ditch their big pack and go with a lighter load to the summit and back to camp. One lesson I have learned is to not hump my huge pack as close to my objective as possible. This is a big waste of effort to haul everything in and then haul it all out to have a short summit day. Far better in my opinion is to find a great campsite just close enough to do the summit in a long day with a light pack.
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The first time we tried Respendant we made a camp below the Extinguisher Tower as described for the normal route. This only made us haul a lot of gear through some difficult terrain to put us in a position for an easier summit day. We didn’t get our weather window on that trip but we did determine that it would be possible to get the mountain from the Hargreaves Shelter on the shore of Berg Lake. So, the next time we tried we had much lighter packs as we stayed at the shelter, found the firewood for heat and managed to find running water in the creek. We saved a lot of fuel not having to melt snow and it was a luxury to heat the cabin.