preface: I was hoping to make a new page but it seems I forgot how.

This is going to be one long ugly mess before it gets molded into some come of coherent article or whatever you want to call it.

This is going to be about different ways to go about different objectives in the mountains. Once you know your objective you can move on to determine the strategic plan and what tactics to use. The first big division in a ski objective is in the difference between a ski traverse and going for summits with skis.

On a traverse there is never a time when you are not carrying all your gear, whereas in going for a summit one can ditch their big pack and go with a lighter load to the summit and back to camp. One lesson I have learned is to not hump my huge pack as close to my objective as possible. This is a big waste of effort to haul everything in and then haul it all out to have a short summit day. Far better in my opinion is to find a great campsite just close enough to do the summit in a long day with a light pack.

The first time we tried Respendant we made a camp below the Extinguisher Tower as described for the normal route. This only made us haul a lot of gear through some difficult terrain to put us in a position for an easier summit day. We didn’t get our weather window on that trip but we did determine that it would be possible to get the mountain from the Hargreaves Shelter on the shore of Berg Lake. So, the next time we tried we had much lighter packs as we stayed at the shelter, found the firewood for heat and managed to find running water in the creek. We saved a lot of fuel not having to melt snow, it was a luxury to heat the cabin and we made the summit.

This all goes into the strategic plan.

Can we find running water and not have to melt snow? Part of knowing how much fuel you will need.  Melting snow takes time and tastes terrible.

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Are we going to be travelling on a glacier? Part of determining the team size. I don’t do glaciers with less than three and I don’t go in groups bigger than three, so I know I want a team of three. This will also help determine what gear you need and much more.

Three people need a three person shelter and when I first started winter camping in was with Murray Toft doing a traverse at Rogers Pass. This was in the late 80s and we made snow shelters every night. So part of the plan was to have enough daylight and energy to make a shelter everyday.

Here is where the idea of “cost / benefit” can be useful. Having no tent means having to carry nothing but at the cost of having to build a new shelter every night. On a traverse this is not so good, but for a high camp to go for summits it does have merit. I made snow shelters for a few years until I finally got my hands on a Megamid tent. I had wanted one for years since the first time I saw an ad for the Chouinard Equipment ones, but didn’t get mine until it was made by Black Diamond in the early 90s.

I have used a centre pole tent for many years (I don’t like to call them pyramid tents as that describes the shape but not the structure) and have learned a few things about living in these types of shelters and I realized how good they could be with the right set up. This lead to years of developing the FTR Winter Shelter System.